Monday, May 31, 2010

FEATURES OF THE TEXAS FISHING TRUCK: PHASE ONE AND TWO

I'm going to keep this as a running idea thread for Billy Ray and I as far as what features and accessories we need to get fishing. Other ideas and hopefully some craigslist and ebay bargains might come along and how they might be incorporated.



We're not looking to make a head-turner or a boy racer here with the TFT, the Texas Fishing Truck. Function over form and style is the key thought. We'll be limited by budget, but I have a pretty good track record of finding and getting bargain items for all sorts of outside interests, and I have no doubt some of the things mentioned for phase two of the vehicle will come around at a good price sooner or later.



Phase One will be the immediate phase, once we buy the vehicle and the maintenance and things we need to get going on fishing trips immediately. It will be judicious and will include some vehicle improvements as we go. Of course, we'll be wanting to go fishing as soon as the TFT is roadworthy, and somewhere where we can do some thorough driving through some interesting conditions.



PHASE ONE



DOUBLE BATTERY-adding a battery to a 4X4 is good sense and cheaply done. Gives good backup power when out in the woods.


EXTRACTION GEAR: At the minimum, some shovels and high lift jack and tow straps/chains and a set of Sand Ladders. The Sand Ladders can be had for under $200, and you can throw them on the bottom of your roof rack mesh floor


ROOF RACK AND CARGO BASKET-Storage room. Places to put big stuff. Jerry cans with gas and water. Kayaks. Canoes. Small cartopper boats. A single space luggage carrier. Bikes. Boxes of camping gear. I'm pretty sure that part or all of the roof rack, attachments and basket can be found used at a decent savings. If we get lucky the vehicle we get will have some or all of this already. It will have some sort of metal mesh floor to support weight.

I've seen some rod racks for some different types of racks and baskets, and I've got a few ideas of my own for a stackable rod rack made with PVC tubing and which would mount as a stacking unit on a roof rack.

HITCH MOUNTED ROD RACK- For beach fishing, these are handy, and I'm inclined to have a welder friend make me one that I can plug in a square hitch just for beach fishing trips. It makes more sense to weld a square hitch receiver on the bottom of the front bumber, under a winch (Phase Two) and put the rod holders up front. Depending on how much weight you want to carry, you can have a removeable front or rear bumper rack that can carry large ice chests, generators, water and fuel (in the rear of vehicle, please) jerry cans and live wells.

I don't want to carry much at first, just a simple rod rack that mounts to the front of the vehicle to hold rods at the beach, bay or other body of water where trees and obstructions get in the way. You can move your fishing camp to follow the fish and birds if you're beach fishing, and that's the point of

The purpose



INSIDE CEILING ROD AND REEL STORAGE-Part of the reason to have this ride is to have 5 or 6 rigged rods and reels ready to go at all times. There are several brands of inside the SUV roofline rod racks that can be installed, most using heavy elastic lines and small poles to provide support for rods. Extra long rods can be broken in two, with reels attached. The reels reside near the hatchback portion of the car, and the elastic bands in the headliner mounted holders keep the rods up against the headliner out of the way of passengers. Also, since the rods and reels are inside the car, they don't grow legs and walk away so easy.



VEHICLE THEFT AND ALARM SYSTEM Again, the vehicle we pick might already have an alarm. Or not. One thing I like for older and easier to steal trucks is the pin plug that must be plugged into the dashboard to complete the ignition circuit and use the car key as normal. I'm sure there are a lot of vehicle security products out there and I know nil about them. But some sort of alarm system as well as a theft deterrent will be something added soon after purchase.

Since most aftermarket alarm businesses also seem to install various sun screen window treatment, this would be a good time to get the windows done (or likely, redone) and save some money.

ON BOARD AIR COMPRESSOR - A decent one, under the hood, for a myriad of reasons when off-roading.

BATTERY POWERED COOLING FAN-Depending on how old the vehicle is, even if it is not having radiator/cooling issues, a flex fan that runs off electricity is nice to add on.



MECHANICAL-Any vehicle I buy will get the once over BEFORE I BUY from one of several mechanics I know, depending on where the vehicle is located. This limits me perhaps getting some screaming ebay deal from Oregon but it also means my chances of getting a good decent vehicle increase proportionatly with an inspection by my trusted mechanic and buying a vehicle I get to see in person before buying.



Chances are, there will be things wrong, minor or major. There may be problems that the seller is trying to cover up or hide. A good mechanic, and about a hour worth of tests on the engine and transmission and a good look up underneath can tell a lot about the condition of the vehicle.



The point is, if you can turn things the seller knows about (and is not telling you) and show him other things that might be wrong with the car that he didn't know about, you can avoid the deal or save more money discounting the price. Just figure there's gonna be something wrong with a used vehicle, it's just a matter of adjusting the price and knowing what problems to avoid.



TUNE UP AND REFRESH - Once we buy the vehicle, it gets new hoses, plugs, filters, plug wires, distributor (if applicable) belts, all fluids, radiator flush, etc. Try to buy at least one spare of every part that is reasonably priced, like hoses and belts and put them in a toolbox for later use. I'd put new lightbulbs all the way around too, just to keep from getting stopped with a burnt out 20 year old tail light bulb. Again, buy an extra bulb and put it in that parts box.

Have your mechanic steamclean the engine and compartment and consider this being done to the undercarriage as well, or do it yourself. Spend a weekend day detailing the car inside and out in every possible way to the smallest detail you can stand. Lube doors and hinges. Pay your mechanic to show you the underside of the car, where everything is and how it works. Get a manual for your vehicle and have your mechanic check the nuts and bolts underneath the car. Use a torque wrench.


Become intimately familiar with the engine compartment, and have your mechanic show you how to adjust the various pulleys for various belts on the engine. Learn about the carburator, if your car has one, and how to perform minor adjustments on it.

I'm going to want to try to find some new pre-cut insulation because when I detail the vehicle, I am going to remove the seats and carpet and try to get dust and what not cleaned up. If the carpet is still good, it's a good time to replace insulation/sound deadening (or if there wasn't any in this vehicle, it's a good time to install some) under the carpet. Steam cleaning the carpets outside the vehicle and cleaning the floor pan thoroughly can get rid of whatever musty odors or mold or dust that has accumulated and can make the ride smell fresh and clean.

This list will undoubtedly go on and on, but these are just a few ideas to start with. Of course, even without the roof rack or rod racks or anything else, when the vehicle is in road tripping condition, it'll be a good excuse to take off for the weekend and do some fishing and camping in the TFT.



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